Smelling a perfume is simple. Evaluating one thoughtfully is a whole different matter.
One of the things that is helpful when studying perfumery is to go beyond “I like it” or “I don’t like it”. You can get started by paying attention to the way a perfume unfolds, the way it presents itself, its strength, its balance. This is a good first step toward understanding why a perfume might work well or why it doesn’t.
Start with the Initial Impression
In the initial moments after you apply a fragrance, you’re likely focused on the opening.
Take note of what you pick up without trying to discern all the ingredients.
Describe the Mood
Rather than asking “What does it smell like?” ask yourself:
- Is it fresh or warm?
- Light or heavy?
- Sweet or dry?
- Delicate or bold?
- Clean, earthy, floral, woody, or spicy?
These kinds of descriptions can help you form a more vivid picture.
Allow the Fragrance to Unfold
A perfume will shift and evolve over time.
What starts out as bright might mellow, and new facets of the composition will come forward.
Re-evaluate
Test the perfume a few times rather than just once.
You might find that the bright opening gives way to a warm, woody heart, or a floral heart emerges more fully after a while. This kind of evolution is an important part of any perfume.
Assess the Strength
Strength refers to how noticeable the fragrance is to you.
A perfume doesn’t need to be loudly potent to be a success. Some fragrances are intended to be intimate and close to the skin.
Assess the Projection
How much of the fragrance is there for you and for those around you? How does this change over time?
Be careful not to mistake strength for quality. A stronger fragrance isn’t necessarily better than a more subtle one.
Determine the Core Personality
Once you’ve spent some time with a fragrance, you’ll be able to describe its core character. Perhaps it feels elegant and powdery, fresh and sparkling, deep and woody, warm and gourmand.
Find the Dominant Theme
You don’t have to pinpoint every component of a perfume to determine its general nature. Focus on what is most apparent and most persistent in its unfolding.
Note the Texture
Fragrances can sometimes be described in terms of their tactile qualities. A perfume could feel creamy or dry, light or dense, soft, clean, or smoky.
These kinds of descriptions can be very helpful as you learn how to articulate your perceptions of fragrance.
Compare Different Scents
Try testing two fragrances next to each other. Even if they fall into the same broad category, you might find they differ in texture, intensity, sweetness, freshness, or richness. The ability to compare is a crucial part of your olfactory education.
Observe the Harmony
A perfume consists of many components, which must generally work together.
While some fragrances are intended to be interesting because of their contrasts, others seek to create a smooth, harmonious effect.
Notice the Incongruities
If something strikes you as too sharp, too sweet, too heavy, or too weak, try to figure out why. Even if you can’t identify the offending element, identifying that something seems off-kilter is a useful skill in itself.
Assess the Overall Effect
A perfume is more than a list of notes. Think about how the opening, middle, and base work together as a whole.
Think About the Transition
Does the fragrance change smoothly as it develops? Does the middle seem to grow out of the top? Does the base feel like a logical continuation? These kinds of questions can help you gain a deeper understanding of a composition’s architecture.
Keep Records
Keeping written records of your observations is a simple but effective way to improve. Note the name of the fragrance, the date and time you tested it, your initial impressions, later impressions, strength, and general character. You can revisit your notes later, and you’ll be able to compare them with your recollections.
Don’t Feel Compelled to Like Everything
Learning to evaluate perfume isn’t the same thing as learning to appreciate every fragrance.
A perfume can be interesting without being appealing.
Distinguish Your Reaction from Your Analysis
You can say, “This fragrance is very dry and woody, but I prefer something else.” This sort of distinction allows you to be more objective and makes it easier to appreciate different styles.
Summary
Learning to evaluate perfume is an exercise in observation and repetition. Begin by noting your first impressions, let the perfume evolve, pay attention to its strength and texture, determine its primary personality, and observe how the various phases blend together. The more carefully you smell, the more you will begin to perceive the structure of the fragrance, and that’s where the fun begins.
