One of the best parts about learning how to create perfume is getting to understand how different components can be blended to produce something entirely different.
An easy way to get started with this is to create an accord. An accord is a mixture of various aromatic materials which, when blended together, produces a distinct overall scent impression.
Have a Clear Concept in Mind
Before combining ingredients, think about what you want your accord to smell like.
Do you want it to be fresh and citrusy? Do you want it to be soft and floral? Warm and woody? Sweet and creamy?
Keep It Simple for Your First Accord
When beginning, using fewer materials can make it easier to discern what each component is contributing.
Rather than trying to combine ten materials, start with just two or three and see how they behave together.
Select a Primary Material
Pick one material to serve as the anchor for your accord.
It could be a floral, a citrus, a woody, a spice, or another material. The primary material doesn’t have to be the strongest, but it will help guide the overall impression of the accord.
Choose a Secondary Material
Pick a material that complements the first.
For instance, you might pair a fresh citrus material with a softer floral, or perhaps a woody material with a warmer or slightly sweeter note. You’re looking for a connection, not just a pleasant combination of two different materials.
Consider Proportions
The relative amounts of each material will have a significant impact on the final result.
A little bit of one material might provide lift or texture, while a larger amount could shift the entire impression.
Try Different Ratios
Make a few versions of the same accord with different ratios. Take notes on each version so that you can revisit them later.
You may find that a slight shift creates a much better balance.
Let It Sit
Some combinations might smell very different right after blending than they do a day later.
Let your test sit for the recommended period of time before evaluating, depending on the type of material you’re working with.
Smell Multiple Times
Don’t judge the accord too quickly. Smell it at different points. Does it open strong? Is there a smooth mid? Does it settle into something harmonious?
Pay Attention to the Flow
A good accord should feel like a cohesive concept, not just a collection of different materials.
Do the materials flow well together? Or does one material stick out awkwardly?
Seek Harmony
Harmony doesn’t mean that every ingredient has to smell the same. Different materials can complement each other beautifully if they are chosen with intent.
A bright material set against a warm base, for example, can be a great source of interest and movement.
Take Notes
Take notes on what you are using. Include the materials, proportions, date, and any other observations.
This is particularly helpful if you’re creating multiple versions of an accord so that you can reproduce successful blends rather than trying to recall everything from memory.
Name Your Accords
Use a descriptive name for each accord, like “Citrus Blend 01” or “Woody Accord B.” Naming your experiments helps keep things organized and allows you to refer back to them later.
Learn from Failure
Some accords won’t work, and that’s okay. An accord that doesn’t smell good still offers a valuable lesson in contrast, balance, or interaction between materials.
Make Small Adjustments
If an accord doesn’t work, resist the urge to change every single material. Instead, change one material or the ratio of one material, and see what happens. This allows you to identify the cause of the problem more easily.
Advance Your Skills
Once you’ve gained some comfort blending two or three materials together, you can start to try more complex combinations.
Be careful when adding additional materials, and always evaluate how they fit into the existing structure. The goal isn’t to create the most complex formula possible, but to understand why each material is being used.
Conclusion
Blending an accord is a great way to develop your skills as a perfumer. Begin with a clear idea, pick a main material, add supporting materials, experiment with proportions, and take notes. With practice, you’ll start to see materials not only as individual scents but also as tools that can be combined to produce a totally different aroma.
